The Colorful Retablos of Yucatán

San Bernardino de Sisal is one of the handful of great 16th century Franciscan monasteries in Yucatan. Founded in 1552 and sited atop a vast underground cenote, it was dedicated to the noted 15th-century Italian preacher and reformer, known as the "second founder" of the Franciscan Order.
Recently, during restoration of the church altarpieces, colorful mural fragments were uncovered in the long hidden niches along the sides of the nave. Dating from the mid-1500s, they belonged to painted wall altars that preceded the wooden retablos.
The Altarpieces
Tucked away in the dim recesses of the church is a remarkable group of retablos, fabricated in a variety of styles that span the colonial period.
Aside from the main retablo, The finest of the group is a trio of late 16th century side retablos similar in style to, and probably contemporary with, those at Mani and Teabo.
Each features a bold Renaissance framework, whose single shell niche is flanked by paired columns and surmounted by a carved entablature and sculpted pediment. Bulbous Plateresque columns are faced with robed figures holding baskets of flaming or bleeding hearts on their heads, and topped by finely detailed Corinthian capitals. Carved and painted reliefs fill the pediments and the base panels.


The retablo of the
"Encarnación"
The first of these is the exquisite altarpiece of the Virgin,
which recently underwent a thorough restoration by conservators
in Mexico City, and is again on display in the church.
Designed in the same style as the retablo of San Francisco, the retablo's most attractive feature also is its finely carved and painted reliefs, whose original details and coloration have been brought out during the restoration process. The Four Evangelists, each with his associated symbol, are boldly carved above the columns and the center niche
A delightful bas-relief of the Annunciation with stylized clouds and putti is appears on the recessed base panel. Ringed by whorls of clouds and angels, the angel Gabriel gestures to the graceful figure of the Virgin who kneels beneath an elaborate canopy.
And
a charming relief of the Coronation of the Virgin by the Holy
Trinity fills the pediment above. Christ and God the Father,
both crowned, raise a third crown above the head of the Virgin.
Putti look on from scroll-like clouds, while The Holy Spirit,
portrayed as a winged man rather than the customary dove, hovers
overhead.

The retablo of St. Francis
The retablo of San Francisco, on the south side, is similarly framed with carved columns, although the foliated ornament is more decorative than figural.
The altarpiece shows scenes from the life of the saint, notably the base relief which shows the Last Supper of St. Francis, who is seated at table among bearded, tonsured friars. An angel descends with bread for the saint.
The folksy triangular upper panel portrays St. Francis in the company of the Virgin Mary and the Holy Trinity


The retablo of St. Anthony of Padua
A third, related but somewhat over restored side retablo is dedicated to the popular Franciscan saint Anthony of Padua.
Wreathed with vine encrusted columns, it has a more "folk baroque" flavor and may date from the 1600s.
The retablo also is carved with miniature scenes illustrating scenes from the saint's life with adoring figures in colonial costume.
The charming base panel especially, shows a variety of citizens bringing their animals to be blessed by the saint.
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