The Colorful Retablos of Yucatán
A few miles west of the city of Mérida, in the little village of Ucú, stands the little church of The Nativity. Located on an open, slightly raised site, possibly an old Maya temple platform, Ucú was formerly a visita of the church of Santiago in Mérida. The church is conspicuous for its white stucco facade and pretty espadaña. Although these features, as well as much of the nave, were later additions, the domed chancel and baptistry were, in all likelihood, part of the original 16th century mission.
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The Main Altarpiece Inside the church
at its east end stands Ucú's principal attraction: the
late 17th century altarpiece. Now the retablo has been entirely regilded, its dense filigree ornament gleaming brightly as of old. The retablo is skillfully executed, with ornate spiral columns resting on unusual atlantean figures. Some of the figure sculptures remain, notably the Virgin of the Nativity herself, and San Luis Obispo, an earlier patron of the church, whose carved and gilded colonial statue has also been restored. |
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< Another outstanding feature is the attractive folk relief of the Holy Trinity at the apex of the retablo, ( shown left) also newly repainted and gilded. (detail courtesy of Diario de Yucatan) Other colonial santos stand in the nave, notably a harrowing Crucifixion figure, and another, more elegant statue of Christ of the Sacred Heart (shown right) costumed in fine estofado detail. > Although the original painted panels were missing from the altarpiece, six colorful new oil paintings were created in a compatible style by the local architect and painter Noemy Vallado Negroe, four depicting Nativity scenes and two with portraits of the Four Evangelists on the base panels. There are also several figures of Christ in the church, among which the 17th century statue in the baptistry is especially striking. Although Christmas
is celebrated at Ucú, the principal village festival is
the feast of the Virgin of the Nativity, observed, as elsewhere
in Mexico, on September 8th. |
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