Exploring Colonial Mexico©Exploring Colonial Mexico©
One day in the early 1600s, the astounded villagers of Tabí witnessed an apparition of the Virgin rising from the green waters of the town cenote, formerly sacred to an ancient Mayan water goddess.
Soon afterwards, the Virgin miraculously reappeared, this time carrying to safety a horseman whose mount had lost its footing at the brink threatening to plunge him into the depths.
A painted figure of the miracle-working Virgin of the Assumption became the focus of a popular cult here, attracting followers from across the region.
During the 19th century Caste War, the inhabitants fled to Sotuta, taking the image with them. Enraged Maya rebels besieged Sotuta, demanding the return of the Virgin in exchange for the lives of the townspeople.
The Virgin was duly returned to Tabí but disappeared for good during the Mexican Revolution. Some claim the image was removed to Mérida and sold, while folklore has it that she was spirited away by the Maya and is still worshipped in some hidden jungle shrine!
Although the Virgin has gone, a cycle of elaborate 18th century murals covers the walls of the empty camarín behind the main altar, where the statue of the Virgin of Tabí formerly rested.
Large narrative panels line the upper walls of the chamber illustrating key events in the life of the Virgin. These are vigorously drawn with sharply observed perspective and much anecdotal detail, richly framed by bands of rocaille flourishes with floral strapwork, and accompanied by rows of charming, lifesize, musical angels.
On our last visit to Yucatán (Jan 1998) we followed a new blacktop road from Sotuta to the historic pilgrimage church of Tabí, located deep in the Maya heartland of central Yucatán.
Arriving after noon, we found that the church was closed. We dispatched a small Maya girl to roust the sacristan from his post-prandial nap and waited beside the algae-covered waters of the deep village cenote for his arrival.
After almost an hour, the sacristan arrived somewhat grumpily, shooing away the crowd of village children who had gathered to observe the gringos. As he explained while ushering us into the massive church, he suspected some of the boys of stealing his precious watch, given him by the cura..
Once inside the church,
the sacristan recovered his good humor, pointing out the architectural
high points of the interior, including its splendid dome with
carved decoration, and the stone vault - replaced about 30 years
ago after its collapse during the Caste War, and already showing
evidence of leaks.
The church at Tabi is home to two remarkable colonial altarpieces. The first is the main retablo, located in the apse. This superb retablo features exquisitely carved wooden panels illustrating scenes from the life of Christ and the Virgin. This faded baroque masterpiece from the early 1700s is similar to but, in our opinion, superior to the main altarpiece at the spectacular nearby church of Yaxcabá.
The Main Retablo
However for many years this neglected treasure suffered neglect to the point that by the 1990s collapse seemed a distinct possibility. Fortunately plans were soon under way for the stabilization and ultimately, the restoration of this colonial masterpiece. Under the direction of Fernando Garcés Fierros of INAH, with the support of the Yucatan chapter of Adopte Una Obra del Arte, the project was brought to a successful conclusion in late 2003.
The carved reliefs of the retablo, virtually bereft of their original paint, have now been colorfully restored, together with the red, gilt and blues that distinguish the rest of the frame. The sequence of painted relief panels along the base (predella) of the retablo is especially handsome, portraying Peter and Paul in the center, flanked by the four Evangelists with their symbols, and carved on the spiral column bases, the four Doctors of the Church.
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The Camarín
The second major retablo project at Tabi was part of the program of restoration and refurbishment of the camarín of the Virgin, elevated behind the main altar. In addition to the frescoes that cover the other walls, the entire west wall is devoted to a rare marian retablo thought to date from the early 1700s.
Flanked by painted spiral columns wreathed with vines, this unique retablo boasts a central relief showing the Virgin Mary in the company of the Twelve Apostles, probably representing Pentecost according to Garcés Fierros.
This original relief is
accompanied by a total of 12 modern paintings in the surrounding
frame, also depicting the apostles. These were re-created by the
artist Suemy Vallado N. to replace the original lost side
panels, executed in a popular18th century style.
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