Exploring Colonial Mexico©
Exploring Colonial Mexico©
Colonial Corners of Guanajuato
Many visitors and even residents of the charming colonial town of San Miguel Allende, are either unaware of or have never visited one of the earliest historic buildings in the area - the so-called Casqueros* chapel in San Miguel Viejo.
Located some
5 kms west of the central Plaza Allende, along a dusty road extending
beyond the railroad station, San Miguel Viejo was the first settlement
here, founded by Fray Juan de San Miguel in the 1530s.
Fray Bernardo Cossín, another early Franciscan evangelizer
and associate of Fray Juan built the primitive mission here, which
was subsequently abandoned because of persistent raids by Chichimec
tribesmen and, ironically, the lack of reliable fresh water.
The Chapel
Rebuilt in the late 1600s, the present mission chapel remains nestled in a bucolic setting beside the man-made lake of Presa Allende*. The little mission features a pocket-sized walled atrium with an arched gateway and three outlying calvaritos, or miniature shrines.
The painted facade is a wonderful example of 17th century folk stonecarving. Angels disport above and around the arched doorway, along with reliefs of the sun, stars and varied bands of rosette-like ornament.
The bearded visage of Christ carved on the keystone seems to bear Indian features although, by tradition, it memorializes Fray Bernardo Cossín, the first guardian of the mission and martyr, who was killed by a Chichimec arrow.
A statue of the Archangel Michael, the traditional patron and namesake of both church and community, occupies an upper niche and a pair of rabbits - possible echoes of a prehispanic past - is carved on the choir arch within.
NOTE: The crucifix lodged inside the chapel is a replica of El Señor de la Conquista, a 16th century cornpith sculpture, or cristo de caña, reputedly sent to San Miguel by Bishop Vasco de Quiroga. This was originally housed in the old mission here and now resides in the parish church of San Miguel Allende.
* It is hoped that part of the adjacent shoreline of the artificial lake of La Presa Allende will be set aside as a wildlife refuge, retaining the rural environment now surrounding this delightful colonial monument.
*The origin of the name
"casqueros" here is obscure. The term can refer to mule-skinners
or slaughterhouse workers. So it is possible that such artisans
were located in San Miguel Viejo at one time. Any further suggestions
as to the name will be welcome.
text and pictures ©2003 by Richard D. Perry. For more information on the colonial buildings and art treasures of San Miguel Allende, Guanajuato and western Mexico consult our guide Blue Lakes & Silver Cities
