Exploring Colonial Mexico©
The Espadaña
Press Web site
Homepage | Archive | Publications | Ordering | Yucatan | Oaxaca Hidden Gems of Oaxaca
Santa
Maria Tiltepec
From its hilltop location, a former pre-hispanic site, this sculptural delight of a church commands panoramic views of the scenic valleys and surrounding countryside. Located in the Mixteca Alta region of Oaxaca, along an unpaved? road some 10 kms west of Hwy 190 between Yanhuitlan and Nochistlan, Santa Maria Tiltepec amply rewards the curious visitor.
The West Front
After its imposing site, the next feature to impress at Tiltepec is the sight of the broad church front, whose squat towers frame a densely carved "retablo-facade." Although its date is uncertain, it appears that the present facade incorporates a 17th century reworking of the 16th century front (1575). Many classic Dominican features, including the canted, coffered doorway and the massed shell niches, are embellished with relief ornament in popular style.
Between the ornamental niches and rows of richly textured folk Ionic columns on the lower level, and the unusual "Egyptian" composite columns on the middle level, (the top level has been partly destroyed) decorative passages of floral relief, vines and strapwork fill every intervening space.
The octagonal "bulls-eye" choir window in the upper facade is flanked by armorial deer and jaguar reliefs that may refer to the 16th century Mixtec rulers of Tiltepec.The Dominican cross is emblazoned above the columns in the main frieze.
Tiltepec: west porch
The Side Portals
The matching lateral portals also hold great interest. Sculpturally, the south doorway is more elaborate of the two. Above the doorway, outlined by plain ashlar voussoirs, relief nude figures, carved foliage and what appears to be a monogram of the Virgin Mary adorn a large shell niche. The overhead pediment encloses a bust of the Risen Christ above a relief of a draped cross with Instruments of the Passion. A second figure of Christ, arms upraised, is cut into the attic block which is dated 1689. The entire portal is surrounded by numerous carvings of coffered panels, floral medallions and, to each side of the crowning pediment, striking reliefs of the sun and moon a reference to the patron of the church .
The north doorway is also dated February 1687 possibly to mark the completion of the church remodelling. The Spanish royal arms, crudely carved, appear above the be-scrolled keystone flanked by bold floral medallions, another possible reference to Mixtec nobility.
Note also the twin nave windows, north and south, handsomely framed by candelabra columns and surmounting shells, probably part of the 16th century fabric.
Tiltepec:
south portal. (2)
The Interior
<The choir, choir arch and organ loft (3)
The church is surprisingly large, the 5 bays of the nave prominently defined by cut stone arches. The massive arch supporting the choir at the west end is especially impressive, set on squat, sculpted pillars and edged with reliefs of scrolls, floral medallions and angels' heads. A polychrome figure of Mary is carved on the keystone flanked by fluttering angels.
As at nearby Yanhuitlan, a handsome 18th century organ* with an ornate baroque case, rests on a separate loft beside the choir, where it awaits restoration. >
A colonial stone baptismal font stands inside a fenced enclosure in the nave, with painted, carved foliage, and supported on feathered serpent legs.
The Retablos
Tiltepec is the proud possessor of several magnificent gilded retablos. These are classic late 17th century works, their tiers framed by spiral columns and hung with the distinctive Oaxacan baluster pendants. Niches enclose cycles of fine baroque painting.
retablo of the Virgin
retablo of the Archangels retablo of the Holy Cross
retablo of the Virgin : predella frieze
SOURCES & LINKS:
