Exploring Colonial Mexico©
Exploring Colonial Mexico©
Chiapa de Corzo, the ancient chiapanec capital of Chiapas, is known for its varied colonial monuments, most notably the spectacular 16th century brick fountain, the old Dominican priory of Santo Domingo, and the roofless hillside church of San Sebastián, dedicated to the town's patron saint.Less well-known is the tiny Calvary Chapel, located at the top of a hill, next to a spreading ceiba tree in the outer barrio of San Pedro, enjoying panoramic views of the city and its monuments.
The Facade
At its heart a 17th century building, the chapel front was remodeled in popular neogothic style around 1900. Despite the folk gothic arches and pinnacles, the crowded arcades between the squat towers remain in the tradition of vernacular architecture in Chiapas.
One unique feature of the facade is a pair of large, painted bas reliefs, depicting Our Lady of Mt Carmel (L) and St. Francis of Assisi (R) set in ogee-like niches or frames.
Such painted reliefs, while a rarity in Chiapas, are firmly in the tradition of popular religious art in Guatemala and Andalusia, as well as other parts of southern Mexico
The Descent from the Cross
Another unexpected treasure of El Calvario rests inside the church. This is a venerable wooden relief illustrating The Descent from the Cross, a much discussed work of art*, believed to have belonged to the now lost 16th century main altarpiece taken from the old Dominican priory of Santo Domingo (located down the hill beside the river, just off the main plaza in Chiapa de Corzo).
Now displayed inside a glass case on the right hand side of the narrow nave (which makes it difficult to photograph in situ) the panel is carved, painted and gilded in an unexpectedly sophisticated style, of excellent workmanship and compelling composition.
The figures are convincingly modeled, especially the slumping body of Christ in the foreground; the elaborate robes of the many onlookers are carved in rhythmic, flowing lines and richly incised with estofado patterning. The relief is probably based on a European print or painting, and may even be the work of a European artist.
El Señor del Calvario El Calvario is also the focus of one of Chiapas' most interesting folk festivals, dedicated to El Señor del Calvario, a venerated crucifix that rests above the main altar,
The nine day observance begins on the third Friday of October, a colorful and well attended celebration at the chapel, which has been spectacularly decorated with floral enramas, fruits and festive foods including circular rosca breads for the occasion.
SOURCES AND LINKS:
- text ©2005 by Richard D. Perry. Thanks to Virginia Guess for her information and insights into El Calvario and its folk traditions.
- color images ©2004 /2005 by Robert Guess. All rights reserved. Not to be reproduced without permission.
- * studies by Salvador Toscano, Manuel Toussaint and José Moreno Villa, among others.
- for full details on this festival see the Spanish article by Alicia del Carmen Camas Pascacio
- consult our archive for other pages on the colonial monuments of Chiapas.
- see also our 2004 update on the missions of the Zoque region.
- discover the painted churches of nearby Tabasco
Our affordable guidebook, More Maya Missions sympathically describes all the other notable Spanish colonial monuments of Chiapas: city churches, urban mansions, Dominican monasteries and convents, and rural missions - even a 16th century fountain, newly restored and one of the most spectacular colonial structures in the Americas.
Available online excusively through this web site.
